Far from the summer crowds, the Ulysses Riviera reveals its most authentic face: here are ten experiences to live in winter, between nature, history and traditions
The Riviera UlyssesIn the Lazio south, it is one of the most interesting stretches of the Tyrone coast: beyond 75 kilometers where beaches and headlands alternate with natural parks, historic villages and mountain landscapes. Located less than two hours and Roma and from NaplesThis destination reveals its most authentic face during the low seasonwhen the pace slows down, the places become empty and the area can be experienced more quietly, far from the frenzy of mass tourism.
According to legend, these landscapes are linked toHomer’s Odyssey and with the myth of Ulysses. In fact, it is said that the Greek hero stayed here, as a guest of the sorceress Circewho according to tradition lived on the Circeo peninsula.
Today this protected area has a great variety of environments: long sandy beaches and coastal dunes, to be admired headland above the sea and mountain ranges that are more than 2,000 meters above sea level. In fact, behind the coast rise the Aurunci Mountains hi Ausoni Mountainstwo chains of the Apennines that protect the Riviera from the cold winds coming from the north and contribute to the creation of a particularly mild climate even during the winter.
Here you will find several important places, each with its own character: oh San Felice Circeo ovary a Minutes on the east side, passing through Terracina, sperm ships, Gaeta e formsso that Funds e Itri inland.
sperm ships Its central location, its beautiful village (old medieval town), MAN archaeological museum, culture and other incredible features deserve a special mention.
This guide was born right here, written by two creative people from the north of Italy who spent three winters between 2023 and 2025 in this area. They are Ivan Kuznetsov, a journalist, and Irina Kudres, a photographer. From this experience was also born the book “Another Odyssey” (Overview, 2025), a collection of photographs with interviews with seven local people, including a sailor, a cook and an archaeologist, all involved in the development of sustainable tourism in the region.
In this article, Ivan and Irina share practical experiences and unpublished materials, answering a simple question: “What can you do on the Ulysses Riviera in winter?Why visit this part of Lazio in the off-season rather than in the summer?
Here are the best things to do and see in the Ulysses Riviera in winter:
Eat in a typical restaurant in Terracina
Whether for lunch or dinner, eat at the Locanda Ruggeri (Via del Rio, 10) is a great way to start this journey along the coast. This is a family restaurant Off Terracinawhere different dishes are prepared every day based on the daily catch. The menu also offers seasonal productslike the black truffle in winter. The restaurant is managed by Chef Michele, his wife Piera and his parents. Events are also often organized, so this place serves as an informational and cultural space.
Look at the sailors at the port of Gaeta
Every city on the Ulysses Riviera has a port. It is the oldest and largest of all Gaeta. In the afternoon you often see a lot boats of different types and sizes: from rowing boats to large ships, which return with the catch. In addition, there are many cats in this area, as well as many fish of course. You can even buy fish directly from the boats!
But there are other things you can do at the port too. For example, you can look i sailor which unloads, cleans and repairs ships, weaves nets and much more.
Walk on the longest beach in Fondi
The Tyrone coast it is suitable for to walkespecially in winter. In fact it is not hot and there are no umbrellas on the beach. The longest one in the Ulysses park (10-15 km) is located between Sperlonga and Terracina and it belongs to the municipality of Fondi, even if the city is not located on the coast.
There are almost no buildings at this beach, but on the contrary there are big sand dunes with sparse and protected plants. If you get tired, you can also take a bus. The best time to walk here is when the tide is low, so the beach is wider and the sand is firmer.
Explore the natural park of San Felice Circeo
At the westernmost point of the Ulysses Riviera, near the city of San Felice Circeothere is one of the 25 Italian national parks, which has the same name on the city. Before you explore it, visit the city, which is included in the list of “the most beautiful villages in Italy”. The main and easiest road to visit the park in a day goes through the headland. On the way or on your way back you will pass the picturesque Capo Circeo lighthouse18 meters high.
Discover the archaeological park near Minturno
The whole area between Rome and Naples is steeped in history. But if I had to choose one specific, lesser known place along the Riviera, it would be Minturnae Archaeological Park and the Royal Ferdinando Bridgewhich is located near the city of Minturno on the east side. You could say it is the equivalent of Pompeii and Ostia Antica. In fact, here you can see a ancient roman amphitheatrecolumns, porticoes and other structures, including part of the Via Appia famous. This Roman road runs from Rome to Brindisi, in Puglia.
Visit the island of Ponza by boat
Throughout the year, Laziomar offers ferries from forms all’Ponza Islandin the Pontine Islands archipelago, three times a day. Here life slows down in the low tourist season, but it never stops. Usually, even in winter, at least some hotels and guesthouses stay open. In addition, there are some paths which leads to the deserted beach, where you can have a picnic without many tourists. Choose the Tethys ferry and a sunny and calm day for your trip, so you can enjoy the sights of Aurunci Mountains from the open bridge during the trip (2.5 hours).
Taste local products in the olive groves of Itri
In addition to Fondi, the capital is inland Itri. Here there are many farms that grow olives of the famous Itrana variety and known by the nameGaeta olives“. They are usually shipped from this port to various destinations in Europe and around the world. They are sold as pickled fruit in jars, in bulk and, of course, as bottled oil in shops along the coast. Some farms also offer them a journey to savorlike the Azienda Agricola Cosmo di Russo, 10 minutes by car from Gaeta.
Walking in the mountains above Formia
The Ulysses Riviera will not be boring even for those who prefer it longer treks. For them, in fact, there are two more “parks”: the mountains Ausoni e Aurunci. The highest peak of the latter is iMount Petrella1,533 meters, which towers over the entire province of Latina. For group walks of up to 15 people, choose a local guide from the Trek Med association. If you prefer to go alone, the simplest walk is the one on the Savior’s Summit1,235 meters, right above Formia.
Spend an afternoon full of culture in Sperlonga
During the partiesin the winter season, the association of the city of sperm ships hosts several concerts in the village, which in turn is present in the list of “the most beautiful villages in Italy”. Everything is played here: acoustic guitar, jazz, rock, local musicians, singers and performers. If there are no events during the period of your visit, the ancient and authentic cinema of the city the latest movies released every weekend. Before you go in, however, enjoy a beautiful sunset from a cafe, overlooking the entire coast.
Conclusions
During the winter season, the Ulysses Riviera is the perfect place for slow, eco-friendly and creative tourism. From walks on the port, to tasty and cheap meals made with local and seasonal products, from mountain routes to different types outdoor activities, up to the various cultural events that are not missing even during the period of Christmas and New Year … this area of Lazio will surprise you with its beauty and authenticity. In addition, by visiting this place during the low tourist season, you will support the development of a more sustainable tourism and respect places.
Cover image: Terracina beach. November 2023. Photo by Irina Kudres
Author: Ivan Kuznetsov. A journalist, editor and writer from Finnish Karelia lives in Italy. He is co-founder of the creative studio Panoramica with Irina Kudres, a photographer from Moscow. They mainly write and publish books and photographic stories about creativity, nature and different communities in Italy, Europe and the world.
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